Here is what you can learn about me from this blog so far:
2. Based off this title alone, I am obviously a huge dork.
Now Capri isn’t usually my type of travel destination: supremely touristy, incredibly expensive, always crowded.
My first time visiting was when I was 16 while on a school trip with my Latin class. 8 girls. A 25 year old teacher. 6 days around Italy. Our visit to Capri was comprised of a bus to Capri’s centre for some sight-seeing/shopping, then a bus to Anacapri, then a bus to the Blue Grotto, then back on the Ferry and home again.
It was a hot, dry, dirty, exhausting whirlwind of a day.
And I absolutely fell in love.
But just like any love affair, 10 years and multiple visits later, and my love for Capri has waned a bit. That first time there it was magical: the sights! the food! the lemon trees! the sea! Subsequent visits have not diminished the incredible, jaw-dropping beauty of the sea, or the bright smell of the lemon trees, but it has made me conscious of a couple of things:
1. It is cray-cray touristy.
2. Most of what you can buy/do is WAY overpriced.
The best thing to do in Capri is walk. Walk from one side of the island to the other and you will get to see some amazing sights.
When you first arrive at Marina Grande (this is assuming you arrive at Marina Grande, of course), you will have to push your way past the hordes of hawkers, taxi drivers and other tourists. You need to get to Via Cristoforo Colombo / Via Truglio, to a street entrance that looks like this:
That is a terrible Google Maps Streetview view of it, but you get the idea. If you walk up there, and follow the signs, you’ll find stairs and a path that lead you on the walk up to Capri.
It is gorgeous, the streets are tiny, and it is generally not too busy with other people, as it is all uphill. Oh yeah, just as a heads up: This is ALL UPHILL. If you’re not a walker, you will probably not enjoy this.
The streets look like this:
There are gorgeous gardens you can peep into, and for the most part it’s not too steep. Mostly you’re doing that walk so that you can get to here:
The view from Capri is beautiful, but it is just the beginning. See that sheer cliff on the left of the picture? Yeah – we’re going there.
After walking out of Capri, you have to start walking towards Anacapri. This is my favourite part of the walk, though I should warn you that you will be walking along the side of a VERY tight road with cars whipping by at break-neck speeds. Walk single-file, m’kay?
Tiny road. Fast cars. Hot sun. All uphill. Why the hell would anyone do this walk??
After you’ve walked along the scary road for a bit, you’ll come to the entrance to the Phonecian Steps. These incredible stone steps stretch up all the side of the mountain and used to be the only way of reaching Anacapri. They are unreal.
It is cool and quiet walking up the steps. Keep an eye out for little lizards which sunbathe on the warm rocks, birds in the trees and, of course, for views like this:
You will have to cross the road a couple of times as you climb the steps, but just keep your eye out for where they start again and you’ll be fine. There is one large, somewhat TERRIFYING part of the climb where you are on the open road and the only railing is a spindly fence that barely comes up to your waist. Like so:
Personally, I enjoy heights, so this was mostly just thrilling for me. And the view wasn’t bad either.
Finally you will get to the last – and definitely the most famous – section of the Phonecian Steps, the ones that lead directly to Anacapri. They are, of course when your legs are already tired, also the absolute steepest.
Is it exhausting? Yes.
Is it 100% worth it?
P.S All photos belong to my wonderful friend Mary-Anne as I decided to take absolutely NO PHOTOS on our most recent visit. Because I am an idiot.